We climbed three first ascents, two of them new peaks. One of these, Mur Samir, was 5036m high, the highest I have ever climbed.
More stories, advice, reviews etc to come soon.
Sunday 29 August 2010
Expedition
I got back a while ago from my first expedition to the greater range, with John Proctor and Adam Russell. This was a fantastic trip, you can read about it on our blog here.
We climbed three first ascents, two of them new peaks. One of these, Mur Samir, was 5036m high, the highest I have ever climbed.
More stories, advice, reviews etc to come soon.
We climbed three first ascents, two of them new peaks. One of these, Mur Samir, was 5036m high, the highest I have ever climbed.
More stories, advice, reviews etc to come soon.
Sunday 18 July 2010
Securing the tent-tech and technique
Making sure your tent stays put for the night is always a good idea. While in fine weather this is not such a problem in bad weather (high wind, rain, snow) or when camping on snow/ice it becomes vital.
Tom and I set up his tent on a patch of neve above the Dalmazzi hut. First, using the adzes of our ice axes we cut and hacked a reasonably flat platform. The tent fitted, with the widest end (where our heads would be) slightly uphill. My first attempt to peg out the flysheet was met with the aluminium peg pulling out of the loose snow and dangling dejectedly. We ended up ramming in our ice axes and tying off to them, with pegs buried sideways with the cord tied in their middle. This caused them to act as anchors...far more secure than a vertically inclined peg.
Fiona, Liam, Fergus and I were sharing a 3 person tent in the baking heat of southern Spain. Pegs simply bent on the ground and in the end we tied off our lines to the biggest rocks we could find.
Woken up at 6.30am by the howling wind and driving rain John and I realised quickly that our lightweight bivvy tent was not standing up to the rigors of a Scottish squall. Whether it was condensation or rain driving through the fly that was falling onto our faces was a moot point...one peg at least had come out, the tent was wobbling crazily and it was time we got up. The tent was stuffed into the car and we did the only sensible thing...went for a walk.
Camping on snow is something that everyone should try. Insulation becomes far more important, especially from below, and anchoring the tent becomes a real challenge. With a few simple tricks though it can be done.
Soft snow
Using deadmen, buried ice axes, buried ice screws, buried walking poles....if you can bury it, and it has a reasonable surface area, it should stay put. Some people fill a Tesco bag with snow and bury it with a line attached to the handles.
On harder snow or ice, for instance on a glacier, it may well be impossible or just impractical to bury something of the required size. Ice screws are perfect for this and ice axes, ice hooks and such can be readily adapted. If not enough ice screws are available then try using Abalokov threads.
Tom and I woke up to find a foot of accumulated snow pressing in on us. Minutes of punching allowed us to sit up. Only when outside did we remember Harry.
"Harry, where are you?"
"Ere" came the muffled reply from a slightly tent shaped patch of snow. Harry scraped his way out of his 1 man bivvy tent, completely invisible except for the opening. We looked at the several feet of powder that blocked the path to Coire an't Sneachda and headed to Aviemore to hire some cross country skis.
On rock
If camping on a rock ledge there may be no dirt, snow or ice present. Rock protection can be used if present, if not then loose rock may be used with cord wrapped around it. For this kind of situation ideally you want a geodesic dome tent as opposed to a hoop tent, as its inherent stability will keep it upright and in decent shape so long as there is enough weight in it to stop it from flying off.
Fiona, Liam, Fergus and I were sharing a 3 person tent in the baking heat of southern Spain. Pegs simply bent on the ground and in the end we tied off our lines to the biggest rocks we could find.
Woken up at 6.30am by the howling wind and driving rain John and I realised quickly that our lightweight bivvy tent was not standing up to the rigors of a Scottish squall. Whether it was condensation or rain driving through the fly that was falling onto our faces was a moot point...one peg at least had come out, the tent was wobbling crazily and it was time we got up. The tent was stuffed into the car and we did the only sensible thing...went for a walk.
Camping on snow is something that everyone should try. Insulation becomes far more important, especially from below, and anchoring the tent becomes a real challenge. With a few simple tricks though it can be done.
Soft snow
Using deadmen, buried ice axes, buried ice screws, buried walking poles....if you can bury it, and it has a reasonable surface area, it should stay put. Some people fill a Tesco bag with snow and bury it with a line attached to the handles.
On harder snow or ice, for instance on a glacier, it may well be impossible or just impractical to bury something of the required size. Ice screws are perfect for this and ice axes, ice hooks and such can be readily adapted. If not enough ice screws are available then try using Abalokov threads.
Tom and I woke up to find a foot of accumulated snow pressing in on us. Minutes of punching allowed us to sit up. Only when outside did we remember Harry.
"Harry, where are you?"
"Ere" came the muffled reply from a slightly tent shaped patch of snow. Harry scraped his way out of his 1 man bivvy tent, completely invisible except for the opening. We looked at the several feet of powder that blocked the path to Coire an't Sneachda and headed to Aviemore to hire some cross country skis.
On rock
If camping on a rock ledge there may be no dirt, snow or ice present. Rock protection can be used if present, if not then loose rock may be used with cord wrapped around it. For this kind of situation ideally you want a geodesic dome tent as opposed to a hoop tent, as its inherent stability will keep it upright and in decent shape so long as there is enough weight in it to stop it from flying off.
Wednesday 7 July 2010
Electronics in the wild-keeping them alive.
When in the hills or away from civilisation it can be useful to have a phone (in case of emergencies) and a camera (to take pictures of all the cool things you see). The often inclement conditions can however take their toll on electronics, both temporarily and permanently.
Tom, Nick, John and I were almost at the bivvy hut when the heavens opened. Thunder boomed and the rain lashed down. I had time to get into my waterproofs and sling a waterproof cover over my cheap Blacks rucksack. When we got to the hut I found that a hole in this cover had channeled a pool of water into the same pocket as my £80 camera. Its red 'flash ready' light was blinking the binary equivalent of a death rattle. I removed the batteries, opened all the hatches and lay it on the floor to dry. Despite sitting without batteries in a hot car for 5 days afterwards it never recovered.
Camping up next to the CiC hut below Ben Nevis in winter I woke on Sunday to find the temperature had soared (not good when you are camping on snow) and that I was sleeping in a pool of water. My phone and camera were in the sidepocket of the tent and damp, both of them registering low battery. Once back to the minibus they sprang to life as if by magic......
Two things will kill your gadgets when you are in the hills, the cold (temporary, unless it is really extreme) and the wet (permanent, unless you are really lucky).
The cold slows down the chemical reaction inside batteries, making it appear that there is less energy left than there really is. When climbing in the cold I now keep my camera as close to my body as I can, usually in my breast pocket, never in the lid of my rucksack. The same goes with phones. It is often an idea to remove the batteries and try warming them under armpits/in groin region, as these the warmest parts of the body. This can give you enough juice to take that perfect picture or make that phonecall.
To keep gear dry I use drybags/drysacks, call them what you will. Light and well made are podsacs ultra light range, made of something like cordura. These have no zips, which loses a lot of weight but are equally waterproof. It is worth having a few different sizes, one the same as the inside of your rucksack to put everything in and others of different sizes and colours. This also makes finding things easier in a rucksack as things stand out and slide out more easily.
The humble Tesco bag has holes in it, rendering it less than ideal. The light, see through bags that mushrooms come in are hardly durable but are useful and free :)
Tom, Nick, John and I were almost at the bivvy hut when the heavens opened. Thunder boomed and the rain lashed down. I had time to get into my waterproofs and sling a waterproof cover over my cheap Blacks rucksack. When we got to the hut I found that a hole in this cover had channeled a pool of water into the same pocket as my £80 camera. Its red 'flash ready' light was blinking the binary equivalent of a death rattle. I removed the batteries, opened all the hatches and lay it on the floor to dry. Despite sitting without batteries in a hot car for 5 days afterwards it never recovered.
Camping up next to the CiC hut below Ben Nevis in winter I woke on Sunday to find the temperature had soared (not good when you are camping on snow) and that I was sleeping in a pool of water. My phone and camera were in the sidepocket of the tent and damp, both of them registering low battery. Once back to the minibus they sprang to life as if by magic......
Two things will kill your gadgets when you are in the hills, the cold (temporary, unless it is really extreme) and the wet (permanent, unless you are really lucky).
The cold slows down the chemical reaction inside batteries, making it appear that there is less energy left than there really is. When climbing in the cold I now keep my camera as close to my body as I can, usually in my breast pocket, never in the lid of my rucksack. The same goes with phones. It is often an idea to remove the batteries and try warming them under armpits/in groin region, as these the warmest parts of the body. This can give you enough juice to take that perfect picture or make that phonecall.
To keep gear dry I use drybags/drysacks, call them what you will. Light and well made are podsacs ultra light range, made of something like cordura. These have no zips, which loses a lot of weight but are equally waterproof. It is worth having a few different sizes, one the same as the inside of your rucksack to put everything in and others of different sizes and colours. This also makes finding things easier in a rucksack as things stand out and slide out more easily.
The humble Tesco bag has holes in it, rendering it less than ideal. The light, see through bags that mushrooms come in are hardly durable but are useful and free :)
The dreaded Scottish Midge-coping with it
If one thing can make a day in the Scottish Hills utterly miserable it is our native version of the mosquito-the midge. These are small, biting insects that love warm, still mornings and evenings. They will feed on any exposed human flesh, driving sane people to whirling, swearing balls of misery. This can, however, be avoided.
Firstly, midge nets. There cost at most £5 and weigh very little. Typically they will cover the head, drawing tight around the neck though I simply tuck mine under my t-shirt. This will keep the little blighters out of your face and eyes.
Next, to the arms and legs. Now we enter the domain of the midge repellant and from personal experience nothing works better than Avon skin so soft. This miraculous spray is sold in many outdoor shops because of this very property and is used by hillwalkers, climbers, cyclists....you name it. It also seems to repel other strange biting insects.
Midges are attracted to carbon dioxide, which we expel when we are breathing. Staying still is one way to generate a cloud of it around yourself and be bitten to distraction. It is wise therefor to keep moving where possible. Avoiding lochs an other stagnant water seems to help but in Scottish hills the midge can be anywhere.
When sleeping, if condensation is not an issue and midges are then have the inner of the tent fully closed.
The twin scourges of condensation and midges are unlikely to be concurrent as midges like summer weather. They also are less of a problem when it is raining.
If you are staying at a campsite where fires are tolerated then try sitting near the smoke as this repels midges. Bear in mind that when wild camping in Scotland making fires is generally frowned upon.
A friend of mine was on Skye and woke to a gentle pitter patter on his tent. This was not rain, but midges. This gives a rough idea of what a problem they are.
It is estimated that every year five tourists are eaten alive by midges, their dried out corpses being found carried into the hills.
Firstly, midge nets. There cost at most £5 and weigh very little. Typically they will cover the head, drawing tight around the neck though I simply tuck mine under my t-shirt. This will keep the little blighters out of your face and eyes.
Next, to the arms and legs. Now we enter the domain of the midge repellant and from personal experience nothing works better than Avon skin so soft. This miraculous spray is sold in many outdoor shops because of this very property and is used by hillwalkers, climbers, cyclists....you name it. It also seems to repel other strange biting insects.
Midges are attracted to carbon dioxide, which we expel when we are breathing. Staying still is one way to generate a cloud of it around yourself and be bitten to distraction. It is wise therefor to keep moving where possible. Avoiding lochs an other stagnant water seems to help but in Scottish hills the midge can be anywhere.
When sleeping, if condensation is not an issue and midges are then have the inner of the tent fully closed.
The twin scourges of condensation and midges are unlikely to be concurrent as midges like summer weather. They also are less of a problem when it is raining.
If you are staying at a campsite where fires are tolerated then try sitting near the smoke as this repels midges. Bear in mind that when wild camping in Scotland making fires is generally frowned upon.
A friend of mine was on Skye and woke to a gentle pitter patter on his tent. This was not rain, but midges. This gives a rough idea of what a problem they are.
It is estimated that every year five tourists are eaten alive by midges, their dried out corpses being found carried into the hills.
Tuesday 6 July 2010
Winter hats
It is a well known fact that you lose most of your bodyheat through your head. Obviously, which hat you wear will make a big difference to how warm and happy you are, climbing, walking or sleeping in cold weather.
Tom HS and I were climbing our joint first winter route, boomerang gully in Glencoe. I was wearing my helmet and no hat, Tom had a wooly hat and no helmet. We set off up the route, pitching the technical step then moving together for the rest. At the time I had fairly long, curly hair and when we reached the top the moisture in the air had frozen my hair into a solid, heavy lump. This remained frozen till we reached the bus when it thawed, wetting my clothes.
To give an idea of how cold it was that day, my bottle of Irn Bru (google it if you don't know) froze.
A while later I was winter climbing at Lochnagar with Chris. We climbed a buttress, at around the same grade as boomerang gully but a lot longer. Stuck on belays for extended periods of time I kept warm by wearing a fleece hat underneath my helmet and having a belay jacket on over my waterproofs. Though soaked by the end of the experience I was warm and comfortable.
There are far more types of hat on the market than you would think.
Wooly hats...like the one your granny knitted you. Fairly warm, not windproof, breathable.
Fleece hats....I like mine as it is not too warm, meaning I don't sweat, and is fairly thin so it is comfy under a helmet.
Insulated hats...typically the insulation is concentrated at the top. Very warm.
Down hats...I have never seen one but if they work as well as down jackets they must be roasting.
Down jackets/synthetic jackets often have their own hoods. These usually go over the helmet, leaving more room for air to get in.out.
Windproof, softshell-like hats are light and increasingly popular.
Beanie hats are popular amongst boulderers. So, though, is hanging about in caves.
All in all, it would be hard to go far wrong.
Balaclavas are great. I had one when at school for winter and have not worn one since, but in more extreme conditions these would save the inevitable chilled neck and face.
That said, perhaps just growing a mane of hair and a beard will suffice.
Tom HS and I were climbing our joint first winter route, boomerang gully in Glencoe. I was wearing my helmet and no hat, Tom had a wooly hat and no helmet. We set off up the route, pitching the technical step then moving together for the rest. At the time I had fairly long, curly hair and when we reached the top the moisture in the air had frozen my hair into a solid, heavy lump. This remained frozen till we reached the bus when it thawed, wetting my clothes.
To give an idea of how cold it was that day, my bottle of Irn Bru (google it if you don't know) froze.
A while later I was winter climbing at Lochnagar with Chris. We climbed a buttress, at around the same grade as boomerang gully but a lot longer. Stuck on belays for extended periods of time I kept warm by wearing a fleece hat underneath my helmet and having a belay jacket on over my waterproofs. Though soaked by the end of the experience I was warm and comfortable.
There are far more types of hat on the market than you would think.
Wooly hats...like the one your granny knitted you. Fairly warm, not windproof, breathable.
Fleece hats....I like mine as it is not too warm, meaning I don't sweat, and is fairly thin so it is comfy under a helmet.
Insulated hats...typically the insulation is concentrated at the top. Very warm.
Down hats...I have never seen one but if they work as well as down jackets they must be roasting.
Down jackets/synthetic jackets often have their own hoods. These usually go over the helmet, leaving more room for air to get in.out.
Windproof, softshell-like hats are light and increasingly popular.
Beanie hats are popular amongst boulderers. So, though, is hanging about in caves.
All in all, it would be hard to go far wrong.
Balaclavas are great. I had one when at school for winter and have not worn one since, but in more extreme conditions these would save the inevitable chilled neck and face.
That said, perhaps just growing a mane of hair and a beard will suffice.
Headtorches
Headtorches are great. They leave your hands free, illuminate exactly what you are looking at and can be attached to most climbing helmets.
What to look for in a headtorch? With so many models availaable there is a baffling array of features that have clearly only been included as advertising gimmicks.
Things that are good to have
Main beam....a powerful main bulb, some headtorches have adjustable beams for wide/tight. This is the only really essential feature of a headtorch.
Power saving mode..this is often available, for having half power on the main beam. Useful for conserving battery, for example inside a tent or when cooking.
LEDs....the only colours that I would look for are red and white. White because it gives a useful source of light for very little battery and red because it preserves night vision. This is useful for dusk/dawn.
Things that are there for some reason....probably marketing
My Alpkit headtorch has a green LED. I can't work out why this would be useful, however, it doesn't exactly get in the way. Good for raves. It als has a flashing red LED at the back, on the battery pack, allegedly so that people behind you can see where you are/follow you. Again, not necessary but probably handy now and again. It also has several flashing functions, that might prove useful but weigh nothing.
Other headtorches have halogen bulbs, apparently better in fog(?)
As far as I am aware there are no wind up headtorches, though that would be awesome!
Nick, John, Tom and I started up "Les Chamois Volantes" above the Dalmazzi refuge in the Alps early in the morning. We had dispatched the 18 pitches by mid afternoon (all bolted with solid anchors) and ate on the summit. We had, being Brits, one of who was not able to lead at the time due to an injury had taken far too long and after the first two 60mish abseils were caught by darkess. On went the down jackets and headtorches. Having no bivvy gear and indeed nowhere to sleep other than tiny ledges we abseiled through the night, and the morning of the next day. Seeing the Alps at night form that high, with billowing cloud, a strange inversion that made other peaks look like ships at sea and the brocken spectres and glories cast by our lighting ranks among the things that I remember most vividly from that trip.
Most headtorches, for some reason, use AAA batteries though AA are still common. These it either into the front unit of in a battery pack at the back of the headtorch (as on mine) or in a battery pack on a hipbelt/in a pocket. The latter require a lot of cable and tend to weigh more, as well as being more likely to be ripped off.
What to look for in a headtorch? With so many models availaable there is a baffling array of features that have clearly only been included as advertising gimmicks.
Things that are good to have
Main beam....a powerful main bulb, some headtorches have adjustable beams for wide/tight. This is the only really essential feature of a headtorch.
Power saving mode..this is often available, for having half power on the main beam. Useful for conserving battery, for example inside a tent or when cooking.
LEDs....the only colours that I would look for are red and white. White because it gives a useful source of light for very little battery and red because it preserves night vision. This is useful for dusk/dawn.
Things that are there for some reason....probably marketing
My Alpkit headtorch has a green LED. I can't work out why this would be useful, however, it doesn't exactly get in the way. Good for raves. It als has a flashing red LED at the back, on the battery pack, allegedly so that people behind you can see where you are/follow you. Again, not necessary but probably handy now and again. It also has several flashing functions, that might prove useful but weigh nothing.
Other headtorches have halogen bulbs, apparently better in fog(?)
As far as I am aware there are no wind up headtorches, though that would be awesome!
Nick, John, Tom and I started up "Les Chamois Volantes" above the Dalmazzi refuge in the Alps early in the morning. We had dispatched the 18 pitches by mid afternoon (all bolted with solid anchors) and ate on the summit. We had, being Brits, one of who was not able to lead at the time due to an injury had taken far too long and after the first two 60mish abseils were caught by darkess. On went the down jackets and headtorches. Having no bivvy gear and indeed nowhere to sleep other than tiny ledges we abseiled through the night, and the morning of the next day. Seeing the Alps at night form that high, with billowing cloud, a strange inversion that made other peaks look like ships at sea and the brocken spectres and glories cast by our lighting ranks among the things that I remember most vividly from that trip.
Most headtorches, for some reason, use AAA batteries though AA are still common. These it either into the front unit of in a battery pack at the back of the headtorch (as on mine) or in a battery pack on a hipbelt/in a pocket. The latter require a lot of cable and tend to weigh more, as well as being more likely to be ripped off.
Staying warm
Whether bivvying, camping or crashing on a friends floor (or indeed in a former POW camp in the Val Veny) technique is as essential to staying warm as gear.
Knowing the basics can make the difference between a sleepless night spent shivering and waking up rested, ready to hike/climb/laze about.
Firstly, slopes. Sleeping across a slope means that during the night your body works to keep you in the same place. This leads to waking up stiff and sore. If possible try to find flat ground but if this is not feasible then have your head uphill to your feet.
If camping in thick snow (which is an interesting experience) dig a pit just outside the tent door, the size of the porch. This allows you to sit on the edge of the groundsheet and easily put on shoes, crampons etc and gives a space to cook in, store gear etc.
If it is cold outside have as much ventilation as possible. This means leaving as much of the inner door and outer open as possible, opening any and all ventilation flaps and hatches. This can make the difference between waking up in a pool of your own sweat and breath and waking up dry. Wind reduces condensation by carrying away wet air, in hot weather it is not really a problem.
Sleeping mats are absolutely essential to a comfortable night. The insulation in a sleeping bag compresses underneath you, rendering it next to useless and a great deal of heat is lost to the ground. With a sleeping mat (Thermarest, ridgerest etc are very popular) this is minimised and a great deal of comfort is added by the extra padding.
Pillows....I know one person who carries a travel pillow, it seems a little superfluous when most sleeping bags come in a stuffsack/compression sack. I stuff these sacks with spare fleece, down/synthetic jackets etc as required to make a large, comfy pillow. It is wise to use a drybag instead of a stuffsack if possible as this will keep these vital items dry.
A bivvy bag will add a great deal to the comfort of a tent. It means that your sleeping bag will stay dry regardless of condensation and will reduce convection cooling.
The worst night I ever spent was outside a cave in Northumberland in April. It was the most fantastic clear night and I elected to sleep outside in an £8 synthetic sleeping bag, on a bouldering mat. I got next to no sleep, could not climb the next day and was utterly miserable. I woke at one point to find that our BBQ had blown over and was close to setting some people's bivvy bags on fire and all night the sleeping bag acted as nothing more than a wind tunnel with me in the centre.
In the Val Veny Tom, Nick and I were walking in to an Alpine hut when the heavens opened. Unwilling to use the expensive refuge (Elizabetta? I have stayed there before on the Tour du Mont Blanc) we made it to building that was a POW camp for allied prisoners in the second world war. Here we ate, spread out our sleeping mats (having swept the floor of animal mess and stray using our boots) and had a good night's sleep.
Choosing the right sleeping bag is essential. Down and synthetic have vastly different properties and are not suitable for the same jobs, this is gone into in great detail elsewhere. Synthetic for when it might get wet, down for when it needs to be light is the manta.
Going to sleep after a large, decent meal means you will sleep better than if you have eaten a pork pie and some jelly babies. It is your metabolism that provides the warmth, give it fuel! Also water, as you cannot metabolise without this.
If you need a pee, don't hold it in. Your body is wasting energy by heating this up. Also, you might piss yourself and that would be a disaster.
Sleeping bag liners...these come in cotton, fleece and silk. Silk is lightest, cotton is cheapest, fleece is comfiest and heaviest. All will add slightly to your warmth and will keep your sleeping bag smelling better for longer. In especially warm climes these can be used on their own, and in Alpine huts to keep you comfy under the scratchy blankets.
The craziest thing I have heard of is a guy who would go winter climbing, eat a can of beans and wrap himself in the flysheet of a tent.
Knowing the basics can make the difference between a sleepless night spent shivering and waking up rested, ready to hike/climb/laze about.
Firstly, slopes. Sleeping across a slope means that during the night your body works to keep you in the same place. This leads to waking up stiff and sore. If possible try to find flat ground but if this is not feasible then have your head uphill to your feet.
If camping in thick snow (which is an interesting experience) dig a pit just outside the tent door, the size of the porch. This allows you to sit on the edge of the groundsheet and easily put on shoes, crampons etc and gives a space to cook in, store gear etc.
If it is cold outside have as much ventilation as possible. This means leaving as much of the inner door and outer open as possible, opening any and all ventilation flaps and hatches. This can make the difference between waking up in a pool of your own sweat and breath and waking up dry. Wind reduces condensation by carrying away wet air, in hot weather it is not really a problem.
Sleeping mats are absolutely essential to a comfortable night. The insulation in a sleeping bag compresses underneath you, rendering it next to useless and a great deal of heat is lost to the ground. With a sleeping mat (Thermarest, ridgerest etc are very popular) this is minimised and a great deal of comfort is added by the extra padding.
Pillows....I know one person who carries a travel pillow, it seems a little superfluous when most sleeping bags come in a stuffsack/compression sack. I stuff these sacks with spare fleece, down/synthetic jackets etc as required to make a large, comfy pillow. It is wise to use a drybag instead of a stuffsack if possible as this will keep these vital items dry.
A bivvy bag will add a great deal to the comfort of a tent. It means that your sleeping bag will stay dry regardless of condensation and will reduce convection cooling.
The worst night I ever spent was outside a cave in Northumberland in April. It was the most fantastic clear night and I elected to sleep outside in an £8 synthetic sleeping bag, on a bouldering mat. I got next to no sleep, could not climb the next day and was utterly miserable. I woke at one point to find that our BBQ had blown over and was close to setting some people's bivvy bags on fire and all night the sleeping bag acted as nothing more than a wind tunnel with me in the centre.
In the Val Veny Tom, Nick and I were walking in to an Alpine hut when the heavens opened. Unwilling to use the expensive refuge (Elizabetta? I have stayed there before on the Tour du Mont Blanc) we made it to building that was a POW camp for allied prisoners in the second world war. Here we ate, spread out our sleeping mats (having swept the floor of animal mess and stray using our boots) and had a good night's sleep.
Choosing the right sleeping bag is essential. Down and synthetic have vastly different properties and are not suitable for the same jobs, this is gone into in great detail elsewhere. Synthetic for when it might get wet, down for when it needs to be light is the manta.
Going to sleep after a large, decent meal means you will sleep better than if you have eaten a pork pie and some jelly babies. It is your metabolism that provides the warmth, give it fuel! Also water, as you cannot metabolise without this.
If you need a pee, don't hold it in. Your body is wasting energy by heating this up. Also, you might piss yourself and that would be a disaster.
Sleeping bag liners...these come in cotton, fleece and silk. Silk is lightest, cotton is cheapest, fleece is comfiest and heaviest. All will add slightly to your warmth and will keep your sleeping bag smelling better for longer. In especially warm climes these can be used on their own, and in Alpine huts to keep you comfy under the scratchy blankets.
The craziest thing I have heard of is a guy who would go winter climbing, eat a can of beans and wrap himself in the flysheet of a tent.
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